Yangshuo, Guilin

Ah, Yangshuo – it’s the scene that features on the 20 yuan bill, so it’s obviously a pretty good one. Lying at the confluence of the Li and Yulong Rivers, it’s around here that you’ll find the epitome of China’s pastoral beauty in the form of dramatic karst landscapes. And we don’t make this stuff up, there’s even a saying about it: “Guilin has the best scenery under the heaven, but Yangshuo is even more beautiful”.

However, what was once a sleepy settlement is now one that has very much cashed in on its prime location. And not in a good way. The town itself may have become trashed by tourism – that new neon look doesn’t exactly suit it – but the hippy haven that it once was can still be located outside of its inner confines. Head beyond the town and you’ll find some of the best examples of China’s unspoiled scenery. River sojourns will reveal cormorant fishermen going about their daily business (although sadly, even this has become a tourist attraction nowadays), whilst taking to two wheels is the best way to escape the modernisation of the town and get lost in the fairytale landscapes.

In fact, as a tacky backpacker central you may want to avoid the town’s inner throng altogether – although it is worth a rather bewildering wander to say that you’ve been there, done that. Just maybe not the rather questionable “dancing” clubs and all.

But, as both the home of zen and the home of adrenaline, Yangshuo still can be a destination that suits just about everyone.